THE REBIRTH OF A TIMELESS TERROIR

On the outskirts of San Piero a Sieve, one family has transformed a historic estate into an innovative biodynamic farm producing award-winning olive oil.

Originally published Spring 2024 in Valley Life Magazine.

SLOW FARMING: Picking olives by hand allows Gabriella Corsini to check the health of individual trees during the annual harvest every autumn. (Photo: Alessandro Moggi)

Since the first excavators arrived at Il Trebbio nine years ago, the valleys surrounding one of the very first Medici villas have evolved into a thriving agricultural terroir yielding produce of an exceptional quality. Born from a vision of creating a family project with both a positive impact and profound purpose, Clemente Corsini along with his wife Gabriella and their children Lodovico, Niccolò and Dianora, see biodynamic farming as a way to ensure that future generations can enjoy the fruits of their labour.

HARVESTING HISTORY

With centuries of responsible farming in their lineage, knowledge passed on through generations has served as a solid foundation to dream big. Four years after becoming custodians of the estate, work began planning the layout of the project’s main feature: over 30,000 olive trees of fifteen varieties, planted over seventy hectares and maintained under strict biodynamic principles, recreating and expanding upon ancient groves that suffered a devastating frost in 1985. New terraced fields welcomed hundreds of older surviving trees replanted from across the property, including a newly discovered variety given the name Dianora del Trebbio.

Alongside these traditional parcels of larger trees that demand slower harvesting by hand, a careful selection of olive varieties were meticulously grafted then planted in modern configurations, allowing the use of specially-adapted machine harvesters to optimise yield. With wind and weather taken into account, this has resulted in both increased production as well as more time to focus on improving the quality and taste of the end product: mono-varietal and unique blends of high-polyphenol, extra-virgin olive oil that has already attracted critical acclaim from leading journals in the field.

GUIDED BY NATURE

Considering olives and the extracted oil to be a living element part of a larger ecosystem has been crucial to the success of the project. Certified by the Italian label AgriBioDinamica, their eponymous brand TREBBIO embraces the art of biodynamic farming: a holistic, ecological, and ethical approach to cultivating the earth. To maintain soil fertility and prevent pests and diseases, specific preparations made from herbs, minerals, and animal manures are applied in small quantities to enhance the vitality of the soil and stimulate plant growth. The entire process aims to be self-sufficient in terms of nutrients, using on-farm resources for composting and fertility management, in turn helping to reduce dependence on external inputs.

By consciously paying attention to the biosphere of the land, they are able to integrate scientific understanding with a recognition of spirit in nature. This philosophy extends beyond just agricultural techniques and infuses the manner in which all elements of the business are dealt with. Although far more demanding than industrial, chemical-dependent farming, the biodynamic approach reaps rewards that has inspired new ways of thinking about measuring the quality of olive oil in general.

INSPIRED BY THE FUTURE

In collaboration with Professor Mancuso and his department at Università degli Studi di Firenze, TREBBIO is currently part of the Revolution study, seeking to accurately differentiate good olive oil from great by looking at factors such as environmental conditions and hydration amongst others. By dedicating parts of their groves to academic research, the family aims to cultivate a deeper understanding of the agricultural art, regularly inviting students to the property for field-work.

Recent advancements in technology supplying real-time data to the team has become a vital resource for understanding the health of their ecosystem. A network of cutting-edge Terraprima Ladybird sensors, extract information related to soil conditions and hydration, giving a clear picture of the health of the olive groves. In addition, the system allows for accurate traceability of the final product, not only guaranteeing origins of the olives but more importantly allowing TREBBIO to develop pure mono-varietal oils and delicately nuanced blends. The precision and skill involved now matches that of wine sommeliers and has ushered in a quiet revolution of taste in the industry - a subject mastered by Stefano Giannini, who has been part of the project from the very beginning.

POWERED BY HUMANS

Recognising that most endeavours can only succeed with a devoted team, TREBBIO has built a dynamic crew of passionate and resourceful members that operate more like a family than individuals, adding varied perspectives to the common vision of the project. Giannini, with local roots like the rest of the team, not only heads operations in the fields but is in charge of defining taste profiles and ensuring that every step of production is optimised for the highest quality. From considering sun exposure to the necessity of filters during milling, his dedication has been a constant driving force, a contagious passion that is best understood at a tasting session - should one have the opportunity to visit the estate.

EXPERIENCE TREBBIO

Supported by a growing international distribution network, TREBBIO’s biodynamic olive oil is already on the shelves of speciality food shops across Europe and has recently crossed the Atlantic for the first time. Close collaboration with renowned chefs has inspired the creation of new flavour profiles that can be experienced along with the bold Peppery Intense and more delicate Subtle & Harmonious blends during on-site tastings. Initiated by a tour of the groves, each session is guided by a member of the team and promises a voyage through history and flavour alike.